This was my 38th vintage working in the wine industry, and it gave me the earliest start and finish I’ve ever had. We picked our first grapes in mid-August and brought in the last of them in mid-September. Both dates landed about 3 weeks ahead of what I’d call normal.
Smoke on the coast
Early wasn’t the only story this year. A small fire, about 150 acres, burned on the Sonoma Coast during harvest. The area had a lot of pine, and with the weather we had, the smoke settled hard into parts of the Russian River Valley.
It made for a tough year for coastal Pinot Noir. Much of the fruit from the Russian River Valley and Sonoma Coast went into rosé or white Pinot Noir instead of red.
What’s in the cellar
I’m pleased with where things stand. The 2026 Sauvignon Blanc is shaping up to be a worthy successor to the 2024 and 2025, which both won Best of Class at the Sunset International Wine Competition. The 2026 ZaZa Zin is looking great as well.
I also brought in Pinot Meunier for red wine this year. It’s too early to call that one, so I’ll share more as it develops.
How I make a vineyard designate
I want my wines to age well, to taste true to the grape and to be distinctive. They should be enjoyable on their own and even better with food.
For each Vineyard Designate Pinot Noir, I taste through the barrels and choose the 4 or 5 that tell the best story about that site. Those get bottled under the vineyard’s name. The rest go into my regional AVA blends, where I’m aiming to capture what makes that region taste like itself.
Wines for the holiday table
Here’s what I’d open this season.
Sauvignon Blanc with seafood. The one exception is scallops or lobster, which I’d pair with Chardonnay.
Rosé of Pinot Meunier with paella or other rice-based dishes.
Chardonnay with scallops, lobster or turkey.
Pinot Meunier or Sangiacomo Pinot Noir with turkey.
Nelson Hill or Oppenlander Pinot Noir, or Alta Zin, with beef or ham.
The AVA blend Pinot Noirs and ZaZa Zin pair well with plenty of dishes too. I just think the wines above make the more distinctive match.